EZGO TECHNICAL INFO MANUALS
 
 
 
 
 
PHOTOS OF CUSTOM GOLFCARTS BUILT BY MR. CARTS .
EZGO TECHNICAL INFO MANUALS
JAKE'S LIFT KITS FOR EZ-GO GOLFCARTS
JAKES EZ-GO FRONT DISC BRAKES
EZGO GOLF CART REPAIR PARTS
20 HP ENGINE & CLUTCH KIT
JAKE'S CLUB CAR DISC BRAKE KITS
BATTERY FACTS & OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION
HONDA V TWIN CONVERSION KITS FOR EZGO CLUB CAR YAMAHA
CUSTOM DRIVE CLUTCHES FOR REPOWERING WITH NON STOCK MOTOR
 
 
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EZGO TECHNICAL INFO MANUALS

EZGO TECHNICAL INFO.
 
The following EZ-GO manuals are in a PDF file. You can download and print the manuals out. 
 
GAS TXT Technician's repair and service manual
Engine Service and Parts Manual
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/27615-g01.pdf
TXT Service Parts Manuals
 
 
 
Owners Manual for some newer electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/man...645-g01-gb.pdf
Technician's service and repair manual electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28646.pdf
Service Parts Manuals electric carts
http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28789-g01.pdf
 
 
PLEASE CALL OR EMAIL BEFORE ORDERING MANUALS, TO CHECK AND SEE IF THE ONE YOU WANT IS IN STOCK.
 
 

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Gas EZ-GO Basic Info:
 

EZ-GO 2 cycle (1 cylinder) Gas Cart:

Spark plug gap = .030

Gas = 87 Octane

Fuel mix non oil injection = 128:1 Use a

Rear axle oil capacity = 10oz of SAE30

 

EZ-GO 4 cycle (2 cylinder) Gas Cart:

Spark plug gap = .030

Gas = 87 Octane

Oil = 1.5 quarts of 10w30 I recomend using Royal Purple Motor oil

Valve clearance = .004 (cold engine)

Rear axle oil = 40oz of SAE30

 
 
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
What year is my EZ-GO Golfcart?
 
Year of Manafacture:
1976-1993  Marathon. EZGO  number located on a metal plate below the passenger side glove compartment. In the EZGO Number there's a two digit year code ie:. 86 is 1986.

1994-1995  Medalist. Metal body. EZGO number located on the metal plate inside the passenger side glove compartment. In the EZGO Number there's a two digit year code ie:. 94 is 1994

1996-Current TXT. EZGO  number located on the metal plate inside the passenger side glove compartment.In the EZGO Number there's a two digit year code ie:. 96 is 1996
 Electric TXT's come in Series, DCS  and PDS .

In 2001 1/2 and newer EZGO changed the steering box location. Early  2001's have the Steering box mounted in the bulkhead. The later EZGO have the steering box mounted in the frint axle.



Differances in Electric TXT:

A series cart has the Forward-Reverse lever nest to your right knee.

If you have a switch on the  the dash you have a DCS or PDS cart.
 
 
E-Z-GO's "PREMIUM" Drive Systems

DCS
= Drive Control System - Mid 1994 to late 90's
PDS= Precision Drive System - Late 90's to Present

The Series speed control has remained unchanged since 1994.
Both DCS and PDS include a feature to stop unattended run-away cars.

The PDS car also has a governor feature that will hold a constant
ground speed at full pedal, regardless of terrain.

The DCS or PDS car will have a toggle switch under the seat marked "Run" & "Tow/Maintenance"
If no switch on the black controller cover, the car has the SERIES system.
 
Chips and what they do.
 
Performance Option Top Speed (mph) Engine Braking
All Terrain 13-13.5               NO Chip
Steep Hill 13-13.5 heavy      Blue Chip
Mild Hill 14-14.5 mild          Yellow Chip
Freedom 17-19 none           Red Chip
 
Trouble Shooting and Testing of Electric EZGO


ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - NON DCS
ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER.
RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.


These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are secure.

JACK UP REAR WHEELS

Connect (-) probe of meter on BL- battery post. (This probe will REMAIN on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)
Connect (+) probe to the BL+ battery post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage)

POWER TO THE CONTROLLER - Key switch ON, FORWARD Direction

Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.
If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch ON - Forward direction - Accel. pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.

AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER

Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage isNOT present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.
Separate the (4) four pin connector between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment. If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty. If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.

RECONNECT the (4) four pin connector.

Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly.
The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the microswitch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. To ready should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT

Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
Reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accel. pedal. The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed.
If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, wiring or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.

Re-connect the orange wire.


ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - DCS
ALWAYS DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER.
RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.


These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are secure.

JACK UP REAR WHEELS

Connect (-) probe of meter on BL- battery post.
Connect (+) probe to the BL+ battery post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage)
Connect (+) probe to the battery side of the solenoid's large stud. The same voltage should be present. If not, inspect all solenoid and battery cables.

DISCONNECT battery bl(+) wire and UNPLUG the "Run,Tow/Maintenance switch.
Perform a continuity test on wires:
1 and 2
3 and 4

POWER TO THE CONTROLLER

Turn the key switch ON and place in FORWARD
Connect (-) probe of meter to BL- battery post.(This probe will REMAIN on the post for the rest of the testing procedures)
Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.
If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty.
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch ON - Forward direction - Accel. pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

AT THE TEN PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER

Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is NOT present, the red wire between the Run-Tow/Maintenance Switch and the Ten Pin Connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 16 volts. If the voltage is below 14 volts, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. Above 16 volts, the controller MAY be faulty
Separate the (6) six pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts, the sensor is faulty. If the voltage remains below 14 or above 16 volts, the controller is faulty.

RECONNECT the (6) six pin connector.

Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly.
The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the microswitch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. To ready should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
 
Electric Motor test
If the motor fails to turn the following tests can assist in troubleshooting.
Disconnect all wires to the motor and label them

Make sure none of the terminals are grounded to the motor (F1 terminal to motor frame) and continuity is present between F1 & F2 and A1 and A2 but not between them (A1 to F1).
If any of these test fail, the motor would not operate correctly even if the required 36/48 volts to the motor were applied.
 

1) Connect POSITIVE wire (36/48 volts) to A-1 terminal.
2) Connect NEGATIVE wire (36/48 volts) to F-1 terminal.
3) Use a jumper wire to connect A-2 and F-2 terminals.
Motor should turn.
 
EZGO GAS
 
Gas engine circuits, 12 volts is supplied from the BATTERY which flows through the IGNITION SWITCH, then to the MICRO SWITCH, then through the SOLENOID to the FORWARD/REVERSE SWITCH and STARTER/GENERATOR. If Starter/generator fails to turn over when the gas pedal is pushed, perform the following tests.

With the ignition switch ON and the gas pedal DEPRESSED, check for 12 VOLTS at the small terminal of the solenoid that is not GROUNDED. If voltage is PRESENT, jumper the two LARGE termials on the solenoid. If motor turns, the solenoid is defective. If motor doesn't turn, either the Forward/Reverse Switch or the Starter/Generator needs testing.

If NO voltage is present, check the ignition switch and the micro switch(located under cup attached to pedal by means of a rod) for voltage.


Charging System Test

1) Check for loose, broken wiring a use a fully charged battery, taking note of battery voltage.
2) Raise rear of cart and attach a volt meter between the regulator's red and black wires.
3) Start engine and run at mid speed, making note of the meter reading.
4) Reading should be between 14 to 16 volts.
5) If no rise in voltage, disconnect green wire from starter/gen. and temporarily ground to frame.
6) If voltage rises within specs, replace voltage regulator.
7) If reading is above specs, check for a grounded green wire from the starter/gen.

 
 
BATTERY  CARE
New batteries should be given a full charge before use.

New batteries need to be cycled several times before reaching full capacity (50 - 125 cycles, depending on type). Usage should be limited during this period.

Battery cables should be intact, and the connectors kept tight at all times. Systematic inspection is recommended.

Vent caps should be kept in place and tight during vehicle operation and battery charging.

Batteries should be kept clean and free of dirt and corrosion at all times.

Batteries should be watered after charging unless plates are exposed before charging. If exposed add just enough water to cover plate tops by 1/8". Check acid level after charge. The acid level should be kept 1/4" below the bottom of the fill well in the cell cover.

Water used to replenish batteries should be distilled or treated not to exceed 200 T.D.S. (total dissolved solids...parts per million). Particular care should be taken to avoid metallic contamination (iron).

For best battery life, batteries should not be discharged below 80% of their rated capacity. Proper battery sizing will help avoid excessive discharge.

Battery chargers should be matched to fully charge batteries in an eight hour period. Defective chargers will damage batteries or severely reduce their performance.

Avoid charging at temperatures above 120F or ambient, whichever is higher.

Deep cycle batteries need to be equalized periodically. Equalizing is an extended, low current charge performed after the normal charge cycle. This extra charge helps keep all cells in balance. Actively used batteries should be equalized once per week. Manually timed charges should have the charge time extended approximately 3 hours. Automatically controlled chargers should be unplugged and reconnected after completing a charge.

In situations where multiple batteries are connected in series, parallel or series/parallel, replacement battery(s) should be of the same size, age and usage level as the companion batteries. Do not put a new battery in a pack which has 50 or more cycles. Either replace with all new or use a good used battery(s).

Periodic battery testing is an important preventative maintenance procedure. Hydrometer readings of each cell (fully charged) gives an indication of balance and true charge level. Imbalance could mean the need for equalizing; is often a sign of improper charging or a bad cell. Voltage checks (open circuit, charged and discharged) can locate a bad battery or weak battery. Load testing will pick out a bad battery when other methods fail. A weak battery will cause premature failure of companion batteries.

Always use a matched voltage charger and battery pack system. An undersized charger will never get the job done, no matter how long you let it run. An oversized charger will cause excess gassing and heat; this situation could cause explosions or other damage.

As batteries age, their maintenance requirements change. This means longer charging time and/or higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of the charge). Usually older batteries need to be watered more often. And, their capacity decreases.

Lead acid batteries should be brought up to full charge at the earliest opportunity. Avoid continuously operating batteries in a partially charged condition. This will shorten their life and reduce their capacity.

Extreme temperatures can substantially affect battery performance and charging. Cold reduces battery capacity and retards charging. Heat increases water usage and can result in overcharging. Very high temperatures can cause " thermal run-away" which may lead to an explosion or fire. If extreme temperature is an unavoidable part of an application, consult a battery/charger specialist about ways to deal with the problem.

Inactivity can be extremely harmful to all lead acid batteries. If seasonal use is anticipated, we recommend the following:
a. Completely charge the battery before storing.
b. Remove all electrical connections from the battery, including series/parallel connectors.
c. Store the battery in as cool a place as possible. However, do not store in a location which will
consistently be below 32
F. Batteries will discharge when stored, the lower the temperature the
lower the self discharge.
d. When not in use, boost every two months
.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
Q: How to charge deep cycle batteries.

A: There are numerous correct ways to charge the batteries. Typically, charge at C10 amperes, (where C = the 20 hour capacity of the system expressed in Ampere Hours) until the battery voltage rises to 2.583 Volts per cell (i.e. 7.75 volts for a 6V battery). Hold this voltage constant for 2 to 4 hours, and stop charging. A similar method would be to charge at the following upper limits and terminate the charge when the time limit is reached:
* Charge Current = C10 Amperes
* Charge Voltage = 2.583 Volts per Cell
* Charge Time = 10 Hours Battery temperature adjustment: reduce the voltage by 0.028 Volts per Cell for every 10F above 80F, increase by the same amount for temperatures below 80F.

Q: What is the float voltage for standby applications?

A: 2.17 Volts per Cell adjustment for the temperature as above.
 

Q: What size battery do I need for my application?

A: Determine how many amperes your application needs from the battery and for how long. Multiply the two to obtain Ampere Hours required. Increase this by 20% for a safety cushion, and from our capacity charts, match a battery which will deliver this many AH for the required time, and voltage. Connecting batteries in parallel adds AH, and connecting in series adds the voltage. In either case the energy (WH) storage capability is increased by the amount of energy each additional battery provides.

Q: What is the cycle life of your batteries?
A: Any claims of lasting longer are based on selective data, as a marketing gimmick (i.e. selecting the best of one and worst of the other) and is misleading. Battery life, like anything else, cannot be precisely pre-determined, any more than the life of your car or humans. The actual life out in the field, when operated under identical conditions,
is the only valid criteria.
 


Wiring on late 70s resistor cart


Resistor Cart Wiring Diagram

Wiring for 83-93 resistor cart


Resistor Golf Cart Wiring Diagram

Speed control board/Accelerator switch for 83-93 resistor cart (also in the above diagram between the batteries)


Speed Control Board

Non-DCS Golf Cart Wiring


Series Wiring Diagram

Non-DCS Golf Cart controller


Series Golf Cart Wiring Diagram

DCS Golf Cart wiring


DCS wiring diagram

DCS Golf Cart Controller


DCS Controller Wiring Diagram

PDS Golf Cart wiring


PDS wiring diagram

PDS Golf Cart Controller


PDS Controller Wiring

PDS Speed Chip


PDS Speed Chip

Pedal box, ITS switch for controller cart


ITS Throttle Wiring

1989 GAS Wiring diagram TWO STROKE

 
 
 
 
 
89 ezgo 2 stroke wiring
 
 
 
 
INFORMATION
PRIVACY POLICY RETURNS AND REFUNDS SHIPPING WARRANTY INFO
 
 
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